Sunday, December 28, 2008

Looking forward

Ola

I am thinking forward to what lies ahead with trepidation! I am facing a new placement and am not sure what is expected of me! I am trying to adjust to African time, customs, politeness protocol, new language with a little bit of frustration. I will go to the Pedagogical University to meet colleagues in January. I am looking forward to that...

I am missing my family, friends, colleagues, my very new partner (I think? Will he change his mind?). This is all very new to me. I have many new VSO friends and for that I am very thankful.

This is a country of contrasts - streets and sidewalks in terrible condition, garbage overflowing, garbage not picked up for a month, old beautiful architecture, smiling people everywhere, frowning people who smile beautifully when you say "bom dia"!!! Mozambicans have been through wars of independence, supposed civil wars (not really), and general economic downturns the likes of which we, in the western world, have not experienced. Yet, they smile and seem reconciled/happy? with their existence. I am too cynical to accept that in toto but am amazed at their resilience!

I want my family, friends, colleagues and partner to know how much I miss them and think of them. I am on doxycycline for malaria so dreams are vivid! All about you and all nice, warm and reassuring!

Love Karen

Christmas in Maputo














Feliz Natal e Feliz Ano Novo!

Eu falo portuguese um pouco...

I have been lax in not keeping my blog up-to-date. I had promised myself I would do this weekly but Portuguese language classes and regularly being locked out of our apartment have intervened! Dolly, Diane and I have serious problems with the various locks and padlocks on the door and have been locked out 3 times (or it is 4?). We have had various visits from locksmiths and it turns out the door is out of kilter and needs to be fixed. So several locks have been broken in the interim to allow us access!

Late in January 2009, after Portuguese finishes (it is hard!!!), I will be moving into another apt. on Av. 24 de Julho at Av. Vladimir Lenin. I will be sharing with Simone, from London. The apt. is lovely - 3 bedrooms, large, 5 balconies with views of the harbour and Catholic Cathedral or the north of Maputo. It is furnished with heavy Spanish/Bordello red velvet furniture and a heavy dining room table and chairs. We are very lucky!!!! We have a stipend to buy household supplies ie. dishes and cutlery etc. and I have already been to the Saturday craft market to buy a nice big wooden salad bowl and orange batik as a bedspread. We will have to buy new bed mattresses but that is okay. We have a stove and frig and hot water - we are exceptionally lucky.

We buy fruit and veg on the street and it turns out - Q-tips, nail polish, and shoes! My favourite internet cafe is Pirata on Julius Nyerere. I have been able to phone/skype my mother, brother, son and friend Shayla. My son David is off to Edinburgh to celebrate New Year's and should have a fabulous time.

We cooked a proper Christmas Dinner ie. chicken, potatoes, veg, salad, curry (a modified Geoff's airport curry recipe) and rice. There were 5 of us - all VSO volunteers - Diane and Dolly who I share the current apt. with and Simone, who I will share the new apt. with, and Ethjel who is leaving tomorrow for her placement in Beira.

We were supposed to hold Ethjel's going away party at the beach today but it has been pouring rain so we went to a Chinese restaurant nearby and had spicy prawns, beef in oyster sauce, spareribs etc. Mozambique is known for its prawns. I had hot sauce on everything so I was very happy!

Things I have noticed: drivers have no compunction about running pedestrians down, there are a very high number of albinos in Maputo, a very high number of beautiful pregnant women and the most wonderful hairstyles imaginable plus finally - live chickens on the chapas (vans) for Christmas!

I am the pits at bargaining on the street and in the market and speak to everyone - sometimes confusing good morning with good afternoon or good evening (bom dia, boa tarde, boa noite). There are strict rules about when these greetings change. I wink at some of the older men on our street and they wink back. I am told I shouldn't do this but they are 80 and sweet so I cannot resist!!! Guess I have a thing for older men...

There are guards everywhere - banks (deliberately emptied of $$$ on holidays - rather inconvenient), houses, businesses, restaurants. They have wonderful uniforms (a big thing in Africa I am told), handcuffs and batons - no guns! However, the police and military have machine guns - they also say bom dia but won't let me take their pictures.

We took a chapa ride on Christmas Eve to the border with Swaziland - visa renewal issues - and I got some good pictures there. Busses were filled to the gills, food and live chickens were de rigueur as well as red dust and lots of wind. It was a great adventure. We have to renew our visas in January so Dolly, Diane and I are planning a week's holiday in Swaziland to stay at a wildlife reserve, take photos of the animals and birds (me) and go to Mbabane to get our visas renewed. Then we all have to start our placements.

Feliz Ano Novo, Karen

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Our apartment and life in Maputo

Our apartment is about a 20 minute walk from HQ. It has 2 bedrooms, a bathroom, a large kitchen and eating area, a nice living room (we have yet to sit in) and a balcony to hang our laundry (well used). The stove and frig and mosquito nets are yet to arrive.



Monday night, after my clinic visit, the taxi picked us up and took to eat at a popular local restaurant called Mimmo’s which serves pizza, pasta etc. When we arrived home – the boxes containing the frig and stove were blocking our doorway. There is a serious 2 bolt outer metal door with padlocks and an inner door to unlock for secure entry into the apt. Dolly and I used our considerable strength to move them upstairs off the tiny, tiny landing to be able to open the doors and then hefted them into the hallway inside. Lest you think we are amazons – the frig is double a bar size frig and the gas stove was not too heavy.

Tuesday – we got lost on our way to our VSO briefing (a new location) and were late. We met Diane Miles, a teacher who had just volunteered for 5 years in Namibia, who has since joined us at our apartment where Diane and I are sharing a room. The three of us get along very well and had a fun experience helping Sergio, the maintenance man, hang our mosquito nets over our beds. In the end, we may write a small tome about the 1001 “other” uses for dental floss (thank you Dr. Fred Ross in Ottawa!!!)

Some other recently-arrived VSO volunteers – Simone, Ethjel and Carolina - took us around Maputo to show us a quiet internet cafe and supermarket. We used a “chappa” to get around – a small van with jump seats in it, no seatbelts and triple (or more) the passenger capacity. It costs 5M for a ride. It is very economical for local transportation. There are about 25M to a $1 US – if that helps. Internet cafes charge 35 to 60M for an hour. Since there were several crashes when I was there, I am writing my emails offline to save time and money and then loading them up when I get to the closest cafe. Hours are short on Saturday and they are closed, as are most stores, on Sunday.

Yesterday, we had a tour of Maputo and saw the central market for food, the craft market – I bought two wooden masks and a bowl, the local hospital and police station, museums (okay – my request), the port and ferry to cross the bay, and lots of different architectural building styles . The Chinese designed buildings are beautiful .

Street vendors sell everything from individually wrapped candies to pairs of shoes, watches, buckets and mops, socks and hankies on poles, underwear, fruits and vegetables, and cell phone cards. MCEL seems to a popular provider of cell phone minutes in Maputo.

It is sunny and hot but with an occasional cooling breeze and the summer rains have started. It can really pour but it is warm so very nice and refreshing. Today was laundry day – by hand in a bucket and hanging it out on our balcony to dry – on our new clothesline. Bamboo clothes pegs cost 10M for about 20. With any luck my clothes will be dry when I get home!!!

Until I can find a bodum or coffer plunger I am drinking Nescafe instant coffee! My mother will be laughing at my downward slide – she likes hot, hot coffee and instant works for her. I think of her with every sip I take.

We are eating green salad with tomatoes and fruit salad most nights. Mangos and small, sweet, green bananas are cheap (15M / kg) but grapes, pears and apples are expensive.

Tomorrow we start our Portuguese language lessons - 5 hours per day for 5 weeks. Our teacher is coming to our apartment which will be very nice - handy and cheap - since we can eat lunch at home.

Okay must sign off at the internet cafe - Pirala - they are playing my favourite song - the Righteous Brothers singing "Unchained Melody" - I may cry soon!!!!! My heart is palpitating for sure and I am in love after 17 years - what a shocker for me!!!!

Ciao, Karen
Ola

It is exactly one week since I arrived in Maputo Mozambique! I left Ottawa on Fri. Nov. 28th in my usual mad dash to finish packing. My friend Shayla and my mother were horrified. I arrived at Heathrow London the next morning and met my son David at the airport for a nice lunch – his treat!! We caught up with each other’s news – mine being a lot and his being ...not so much! The way sons and mothers often communicate it seems... I had a small bag I had filled at the last moment which would have cost 25 pds per kilo to take on South Africa Airways (SAA). Needless to say, David took it back to his room and will sort out a cheap way to get it to me in Maputo – by slow steamer, if necessary.

My SAA flight left from London at 6 pm on Saturday and, I confess, I was exhausted already. The next morning I arrived in Johannesburg and had a few hours at the airport sleeping on a bench, changing into my shorts and wandering around looking at the many crafts in the large “Out of Africa” store.

I arrived in Maputo, the capital, around 3:30 pm on the same flight as delegates to an international agriculture conference being addressed by the Vice-President of the World Bank. Customs was a bit confusing since we were sent from line to line to register, pay (or not pay) a border visa charge and eventually leave the airport. A taxi driver was waiting for me with a VSO sign in hand. I spoke to someone from VSO in the taxi and was advised that I would stay one night at the Hotel Mozambiquan, where another VSO volunteer, Dolly Shen from Boston, was also staying. This was good thing because, at this point, I could barely keep my eyes open. My room was small but efficient and had a large bathroom. I had a shower and slept for several hours. Following a nice buffet dinner, I went back to my room and slept until the next morning. Dolly and I met in the lobby and were picked up by taxi around 10:30 am to go to VSO HQ for our initial briefing.

We had lots of administrative and financial questions such as how much should we tip the porter who carried our bags up and down stairs in the hotel. I had Canadian, American, and South African money in my wallet and the Rand were confusing me. I very generously tipped the elderly doorman/porter 10 Rand. On the other hand, my suitcase weighed 28 kg – so he deserved it!!!

Dolly and I got along really well and arrived with our bags at our 2nd storey walk up apt. with basically a bed each - nothing else. Dolly also accompanied me to the local clinic - all thrills for her but not for me - nothing major but had to be dealt with... Very efficient - they have doctors, a lab and a pharmacy so you just walk down the hall and everything is sorted out.

We await the excitement of mosquito nets, a water filter and maybe oscillating fans!!!

The staff at VSO Mozambique are wonderful and I fear they fear they will see us - every day for something...

Watch for more adventures, Karen

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Fundraising for CUSO-VSO @ GiveMeaning website

CUSO-VSO encourages its volunteers to fundraise $2000 and also raise community awareness regarding its projects and mandate to fight global poverty and disadvantage.

Online donations can be made at http://www.givemeaning.com/project/resourcecentremaputo

Thanks, Karen

SLAW article

I wrote an article about my upcoming volunteering experience for SLAW (a cooperative weblog of Canadian legal research and resources) and here is the link. http://www.slaw.ca/2008/11/10/karen-maclaurin%E2%80%99s-next-chapter/

I have been a law librarian virtually my entire working career so it was very nice to be asked to contribute to SLAW by my friend and SLAW contributor Wendy Reynolds. Thanks Wendy!

BTW - everyone I know is invited to visit me in Mozambique. I already have at least 7 friends lined up. I will be scouting out the best restaurants, beaches, wildlife parks, watering holes etc.

Getting ready to volunteer in Mozambique

I just found out yesterday from CUSO-VSO that my likely departure date for Maputo, Mozambique in now November 28, 2008. I will fly Ottawa-London, hopefully see my son David there, and then likely fly London-Johannesburg-Maputo.

There are five of us from England, the Philippines and Canada arriving in-country around this time for six weeks of Portuguese language training together. Yes, this is the official language of the country - inherited from its historic colonial days. It will be very nice to make contact with these new volunteers and learn more about Mozambique and cross-cultural issues. I have no idea what the housing will be like but that is provided by the institution you work for in Moz, in my case the University.

The selection and training process with CUSO-VSO is very well-organized but the paperwork required by many countries, in order to issue appropriate work visas etc., can be very time-consuming. The old cliche "patience is a virtue" is not far off the mark. You just need to go with the flow. Not only did Mozambique require my original university diplomas but also official transcripts of my marks. That was a blast from the past!! I have a Police Security check dated from September but Moz now requires a more current one. So, another wait at the Ottawa Police Station - hopefully completing the proper blue (or is it green) form. The day I applied virtually everyone had filled out the wrong form. Luckily CUSO-VSO reimburses you for the expenses incurred in volunteering.

I have almost finished the round of shots I need for Moz and, since it is a malarial area, I will start taking my malarial pills one week before I leave Canada. We will be provided with chemically treated mosquito nets in Maputo and are advised to use Deet and wear light coloured clothing (long sleeves and pants) at night. Anyone who knows me is aware that "black" is my favourite colour - so that will have to change!! We are only allowed about 22 kg of baggage weight (around 50 lbs) so it will be quite a challenge to fit clothing, electronics, medication and first aid supplies, books and sentimental items into one suitcase and a backpack.

I am actively fundraising for CUSO-VSO and my longtime Womens' Group held a pot-luck dinner for me last week. It was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with everyone and they were incredibly generous and supportive of my project in Maputo. The law library community in Canada, of which I am a longtime member, has also been very supportive.

I will be working at the English Department of the Universidade Pedagogica Maputo developing the resource centre there, print and electronic resources, and also ensuring more computers with internet access and other equipment necessary for a university educating teachers. Mozambique is in desperate need of trained teachers. The objectives are to provide quality education focused on distance teacher training (there are four other satellite campuses in the country), building human resource capacity and working on advocacy. In terms of resources – it is my job to provide more equipment and resources and fund-raising is a key component of that role.